Comparisons between the obtained chromatic samples in order to determine the effect of different vat compositions on the final colour shades, as well as tests to determine the colourfastness in terms of light and wash fastness, friction resistance and bleeding rounds off the paper. In addition, the influence of oxygen, UV-radiation, harvest time, sex and freshness of the purple molluscs on the colour outcomes will be treated.
After that, the results of a series of dye experiments with extracted hypobranchial glands from fresh molluscs of the same species using different vats, both modern and historical, are displayed. The paper first presents a historical overview from the 5th century BC to the 15th century AD of the use of the red dye found in Bolinus brandaris. At Monte Testaceo (‘shell mountain’) in Taranto, the heaps found behind the Alcantarine convent– which now locates the National Archaeological Museum – and consisting mainly of spiny dye-murices show the importance of purpura rubra Tarentina in antiquity. Nous décrivons la découverte, par Paul Friedlaänder, de la structure moléculaire de la couleur pourpre.Vous pouvez voir toute la méthode, depuis lextraction. In ancient times, however, it belonged to one of the most important and lucrative branches of textile finishing: mountains of crushed shells in the settlements along the coasts of the Mediterranean Sea still mirror the industriousness of purple dyeworks. Finally, with the discovery of the synthetic purple dye mauveine in 1856, real mollusc purple largely lost its significance in dyeing fibres. It appears that the fishing was done with the combined use of baited traps, diving and perhaps complementary use of small dip net fishing.After the fall of Byzantium in 1453 and the import of more economical dyes from the New World, the decline of shellfish purple was sealed.
Chryssi is the location of fishing and processing of the raw materials, the shellfish. Ethnography and experimentation are also employed. The two sites represent different stages in the purple dye industry. Subsequently, the authors explore the physical aspects of fishing for purple shellfish and the early stages of their processing, based on its material remains, both artefactual/architectural and bio-archaeological. Certain works by Aristotle and other later writers are the starting point of the investigation into how the ancient Greeks understood the physiology of Muricidae, the factors influencing the quality of purple dye and the methods employed for their capture. This is done by combining zooarchaoelogical, written and ethnographic evidence, in order to achieve a multiple approach to the first steps of purple dye production. This paper focuses on the fishing methods employed for the exploitation of the Muricidae shellfish for the production of purple dye in Greece from Classical times to the Roman period. Ancient Greek and Roman written sources describe in detail the economic and symbolic value of purple color, but are virtually silent on the primary producers of the dye, the fishermen.
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